HAYABUSA FENDER ELIMINATOR KIT INSTALLATION

I chose the fender eliminator as my first modification because I hate the look of the stock plastic mud flap.  It does nothing to enhance the beauty of the bike.  I wanted to extend the swingarm and add a turbo, but those upgrades seemed so far away I decided to add the undertail.  Little did I know only 3 months later I would have my turbo and swingarm.  Since the swingarm is extended 6" and I lower the bike when drag racing, the rear tire will definitely rub on the undertail.  I decided to sell the undertail.  I added a Airtech 6" extended tail section with a tiger tail.  This will allow me to lower the bike at the lowest setting with no rubbing.  I will still leave this webpage up for the instructions and pictures.  I still think this is the nicest looking undertail out there.

Here is a picture of the stock Hayabusa undertail.

Here is a picture of the Extreme Graphics Moto Design Undertail

Here is a picture of the wiring on the new tail.  This is how the wiring connects.  The turn signals plug right into the factory wiring.  Unfortunately, they did not include a connector to plug into the factory wiring harness for the tail lights.  What I did was cut about two inches in back of the factory harness and spliced the new wiring into it.  This way if I need to disconnect the undertail, I still can unplug the factory connector.  Make sure you use heat shrink or something similar to keep the moisture out.  I soldered all of the connections to make sure that they make good contact for as long as I own the busa.

Here is how to hook the wires up for the tail lights.

Stock White with black stripe to undertail Red wires

Stock solid brown wire to undertail Black wires

Stock Black with white stripe to undertail Black with white stripe

You first need to remove all bolts holding the rear fairing on to the bike.  You have to remove the 4 screws that hold the grab rail on, the 2 phillips head screws just rear of the seat, and the two plastic inserts that join the two sides of the fairing together.  To remove the plastic inserts, use a pointed object to push the center pin down and the insert can now be removed.  You will also have to remove the two allen bolts that hold your seat on.

To remove the lock, you can either remove the cable from the lock, or remove the 2 phillips screws which will undo the entire assembly.  I prefer to unscrew it to keep from damaging the cable.

Before you start to cut, use a sharp razor knife or box cutter to score the plastic fender.  You can then remove the rear fairing.  Before I started cutting, I removed the rear blinkers so I did not damage them.  Figured I could sell them for a few bucks and it was worth keeping them from getting damaged.  Now you can start cutting, I used a dremel which worked great.  I had to make two passes before I cut everything off.  You can't really cut too much off since the new undertail will hide any of your mistakes.

Here is a picture with the rear cowl removed and the fender area cut.  The easiest way to finish cutting is to score the plastic in a straight line from the subframe back and cut everything below it.  Once you think your done, test fit the undertail to make sure you cut enough.

This is a picture of the rear with the fender cut.

Finished product from the side with license plate mounted.